Mexican food is blessedly plentiful in our neighborhood and people tend to be as partisan toward their favorite Mexican eatery as, well, all those other things about which we tend to be partisan. Despite the competition with a plethora of nearby Mexican restaurants, few neighborhood places inspire such affection and loyalty as does the venerable La Abeja.

Located on the corner of Figueroa and Avenue 37, La Abeja’s facade would be unremarkable save for the amazing, museum-quality Leo Limon murals that sprawl across the storefront’s exterior. Inside, the restaurant is far less ambitious in its décor: neat but spartan formica tables and booths fill its two rooms, scattered portraits of toreadors, Frieda Kahlo and, inexplicably, a shrine-like display of Three Stooges memorabilia decorate faux walnut paneling.

La Abeja’s menu features simple breakfasts and lunch plates prepared with care and craftsmanship that belie the remarkably economical prices on the menu. It’s simple food done well, and with some dishes, done exceptionally well.

A pork in red mole sauce is rich, tasty and so tender that each chunk almost collapses at the touch of your fork. The adobada—justly renowned as a house specialty—is mouthwatering, the slices of meat marinated in a mixture of spices so complex that it presents a mini-fiesta of delicious flavors.
Green cheese enchiladas are outstanding, the sauce rich and creamy, the enchiladas plump with white queso ranchero.

Breakfasts are more-or-less standard: huevos rancheros, huevos con chorizo and, of course, menudo. The egg dishes are served with sides of wonderfully grilled potatoes that provide a tasty boost to the carbo-load. Burritos and tortas are great bargains, ranging from $2.60 for a rice and beans burrito to $3.90 for a torta of the aforementioned adobada, an amazingly good deal. There’s good bottomless coffee service for $1.25, plus a selection of Mexican and American soft drinks.

A nice touch is a plastic cup of dried oregano oneach table. It adds a savory accent to the frijoles that are ladled abundantly onto each plate.

Truly a neighborhood treasure, La Abeja has been open for about 40 years, owned and operated by two generations of the Fonseca family.
Cash only. Open weekdays from 8:00am-4:00pm. Sundays, 8:00am-3:00pm. Closed Tuesdays. (3700 N. Figueroa Street. 323-221-0474)